There are several ways how we can sew hidden inseam pocket. The following tutorial explains how to sew perfect hidden inseam pocket with clean seam finishes so that garment side seam and pocket seam is finished together. In my next post I will show you how to sew easy gathered skirt from my last skirt collection. After you learn this inseam pocket sewing technique and gathered skirt instruction, you will be able to sew exactly the same skirt as I did and add hidden pockets to your next sewing projects that have side seams like skirts, pants and your favorite dresses.
When I was beginner at sewing I thought that inseam pockets are difficult to make and they made me little bit scared. But once you master the basic steps, and sew some pockets, it’s actually a breeze to sew up. So, don’t be afraid, it easy and fun and there are also space for creativity here!
- Your garment pieces – front and back. In this tutorial I will sew inseam pockets in simple skirt so I have front and back piece of the skirt pattern.
- Print this pocket tamplate and cut 2 for each pocket you want to make. Seam allowances are included in the pattern and are 1.5cm (5/8″) for pocket side seam and 1cm (3/8″) for pocket seams.
- Interlining 19cm x 2cm (7 3/8″ x 3/4″) – cut 2 for each pocket, so you will need 4 for two pockets.
Prepare the side seam
- Attach the fusible interlining to the side seam in pockets placement. Look details in picture. Interlining measures: seam opening + 3cm (1 1/4″) x seam width + 0.5cm. Our pocket opening is 16cm (6 3/8″). Side seam alowwance is 1.5cm (5/8″) . Interlining should be 19cm x 2cm (7 3/8″ x 3/4″).
- If you sew 2 pockets, repeat this with all 4 seams.
- Sew the side seams, leaving the openings for the pockets.
- Iron open the seam allowance.
Prepare the pocket
Overlock or zig zag stitch pocket seams – 5cm (2″) from edge.
Make the inseam pockets
- Sew the front pocket fabric to the skirt front. Sew from the seam allowance on the skirt 1mm (1/32″) from ironed groove.
2. Iron the pocket to the side of skirt front.
3. Sew the back pocket fabric to the skirt back. Sew from the seam allowance on the skirt 1mm (1/32″) from ironed groove.
4. Iron both pocket fabrics to the side of front. Overlock skirt side seams together with pocket side seams. I love how the seam looks clean finished and there are not much bulk on it.
5. Topstitch from the right side of the skirt (while topstitch temporary pin the front pocket fabric to the back of the skirt). And this is were your creativity can be shown up. You can topstitch the seam or do some decorative stitches. Look the way I did on the second photo.
6.Sew together the two pieces of pocket fabric, seam allowance 1cm (3/8″), sew as close as you can from skirt side seams. There will be little bit opening, but it is ok. Overlock seam.
This is a way I sew hidden inseam pockets. I hope you liked the tutorial and found it helpful. I will love to hear how your inseam pocket turned out. What was the most challenging aspect of the technique? If you have any questions for me, don’t hesitate to ask and we can discussed in the comments.